Knife Sharpening

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Sharpening a knife is an important skill to learn, as it allows you to maintain your knives and keep them in top condition. With the right tools and techniques, anyone can sharpen their knife correctly. Here’s how:

1. Choose the Right Tool for Your Knife: The type of sharpener you use will depend on your knife’s material. For a stainless steel blade, you’ll need a diamond or ceramic sharpener. For carbon steel blades, use a stone sharpener like Arkansas or Japanese water stones. Make sure to read the instructions on your sharpening tool carefully before using it.

2. Prep Your Knife for Sharpening: Before you start sharpening, you’ll need to clean your knife. Use a soft cloth and warm, soapy water to wipe down the blade and handle. Not only will this help remove dirt and residue, it will also make sure that the sharpening process is as efficient as possible.

3. Sharpen Your Knife: The exact technique for sharpening your knife will depend on the kind of tool you’re using. Generally, it involves running the blade down the length of the sharpener—whether that’s a stone or an electric grinder—at a consistent angle. You’ll want to use light pressure and make sure that each stroke is parallel with the blade for maximum effectiveness.

4. Test Your Edge: Once you’re done sharpening, test the edge of your blade to make sure it’s been properly sharpened. To do this, lightly drag the tip of your knife against a cutting board or similar surface. If it slices through easily and cleanly, you’re good to go! If not, repeat steps two and three until you get the desired results.

5. Finish: Finally, you’ll want to finish your knife off by stropping it with a leather strop or honing steel. This process helps to further refine and polish the edge of the blade, making it sharper than ever before. To do this, start at the tip and move up the length of the blade, applying pressure with a light touch. Once you’ve stropped the entire blade, you’re done and ready to use your newly sharpened knife!

Making a Lean-To Shelter

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When setting up a lean-to shelter, the first step is to prepare the site. Select a flat, dry piece of land that is away from streams or other sources of water. Make sure there are no large rocks or debris that could cause injury if you fall during construction. The location should also be in an area with plenty of natural windbreaks to reduce wind exposure.

Next, you will need to gather materials for the shelter. The most suitable material is fallen branches that can be used as supports and birch bark or spruce boughs for the roof of the lean-to. You may also use a tarp or ground cloth if available.

To begin constructing the lean-to, dig a shallow trench around the perimeter of the site. This will help to reduce water runoff and provide some additional wind protection.

Next, create two A-frame supports on either side of your shelter. Secure these with rocks or other items found in nature that can act as weights. Then use fallen branches to create an arched support between the two A-frames. This should serve as the main support for your shelter.

Once you have your main support in place, it’s time to begin laying down the roofing material. Place long pieces of bark or boughs over the top of the arched support and secure them with rocks or other weights. When finished, the roof should be tight and secure.

Finally, line the inside of your lean-to shelter with soft materials such as leaves or grass. This will provide additional insulation and comfort while sleeping. For cold nights, you can also use a reflective blanket to help trap heat within your shelter.

And there you have it! Once assembled, your lean-to shelter should provide you with adequate protection from the elements. With proper care and maintenance, this type of shelter can last for years. Make sure to break it down and store materials whenever not in use.

If done correctly, you should have a comfortable and reliable shelter that will keep you safe during your next outdoor adventure. Happy camping!

Remember that the location and materials you use to make your shelter will affect how well it stands up to the elements. Make sure to find an area with good drainage and plenty of soft material for insulation. Choose sturdy materials, such as branches or logs, for the framework of your shelter. Don’t skimp on quality when it comes to fabric, either. Look for waterproof or water-resistant options to protect you from the rain and wind.

Take time to plan out a well-constructed lean-to before beginning construction. This will save time and effort in the long run. Make sure that each piece is securely fastened, as even the slightest movement can cause your shelter to collapse. Consider using rope, twine, or stakes to tie pieces together if needed.

When setting up your lean-to shelter, think about its orientation. Generally, you want the open side—where the entrance will be—facing away from both prevailing winds and sunlight. This will keep you and your shelter cool and comfortable while keeping you protected from the elements.

Once you’ve chosen an orientation, start building the frame of your lean-to shelter by laying sticks or logs against each other. Make sure that these supporting pieces are stable and secure at the base before moving on to add other layers. To ensure extra stability, you can tie them together at the top with rope or paracord.

Next, lay pieces of tarp or another waterproof material over the frame of your shelter. Make sure that they’re secure and won’t come loose in strong wind or rain. If you need to, use stakes or ties to secure the material to the ground.

If you have additional material to use, consider adding extra layers of insulation between the frame and tarp. This will help keep your shelter warmer in colder climates or provide extra protection from wind and rain. You can also add a layer of leaves or grass on top for improved insulation and soundproofing.

Finally, make sure that your shelter has a door. This will keep out any unwelcome visitors and provide an easy way to get in and out of the shelter. You can use extra tarp or sticks tied together with rope to create a flap or door for your lean-to.

Once you’ve finished setting up your lean-to, go over the entire structure and make sure it is as secure as possible. Check for any weak points that may need reinforcement or double-check to make sure all of your knots are tight. With a little care and maintenance, you can have a reliable shelter that will last you for years to come.

Expired MRE’s

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MREs (Meals Ready to Eat) are designed to provide food for military personnel during combat, as well as other emergency situations. As such, they need to be shelf-stable and provide nutritional value. While MREs can last a long time without going bad, they also have expiration dates that should be taken seriously.

Knowing when your MREs expire and how to tell if they are still edible can be important for both safety and taste.

The expiration date of an MRE is usually printed on the packaging, and is generally a few years from the time of purchase. This means that you should check your MREs regularly to make sure they are still within their expiration date.

When an MRE has expired, it may still be safe to eat, but its taste and nutritional value will significantly decrease. If you have an expired MRE, you should look for signs that indicate spoilage or food poisoning before consuming the meal.

Common signs of spoilage to look for include discoloration, an unusual smell, and the presence of mold. If you notice any of these signs, do not consume the MRE. Additionally, if your MRE has been in a hot environment or has sustained damage to its packaging, it might be best to discard it as well.

When inspecting an MRE for spoilage, make sure to check both the actual meal and its packaging. The expiration date printed on an MRE’s packaging is generally accurate, but it is also important to check for signs of spoilage that may not be evident in the exp

If you are unsure whether or not your MRE has expired, it is best to err on the side of caution and discard it. If you notice any of the signs of spoilage mentioned above, you should not consume your MRE. Additionally, if an MRE has been at high temperatures or exposed to moisture for extended periods of time, it is best to dispose of it as well.

Never take chances with food safety; always discard expired MREs and any MREs that you suspect are spoiled. If stored properly, an MRE can last up to five years, but it is always best to check for signs of spoilage before consuming one. Be sure to store your MREs in a cool, dry place and use them by the expiration date whenever possible. With proper storage and a little knowledge, you can enjoy your MREs for years to come.

Is Amateur Radio Dead?

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Amateur radio, also known as ham radio, is a popular hobby amongst technically-minded people who enjoy communicating with others and learning about electronics. Despite its popularity in the past, the number of amateur radio enthusiasts has been declining in recent years. There are several reasons for this decline.

First, modern technology has made amateur radio less relevant. Many radio-related activities, such as broadcasting and distance communication, can now be done with cell phones or the internet. Amateur radio operators need to have a license in order to use certain frequencies, so most people opt for other simpler options like smartphones instead.

Second, amateur radio requires a large investment of time and money in order to setup and maintain the necessary equipment. Amateur radio operators need to have an antenna, transceiver, power supply, and other components. This can be expensive for hobbyists who may not have much money to spare.

Finally, amateur radio is seen as being old-fashioned by many people today. The technology used in amateur radio has remained largely unchanged since its introduction, while other forms of communication have advanced significantly. People tend to prefer the newer, more modern options such as the internet or smartphones instead of using outdated methods like amateur radio.

Despite this, there are still many avid amateur radio enthusiasts who use the technology on a regular basis. Amateur radio is a great way to stay connected to other people around the world and can be a lot of fun for those who are interested in it. However, it is clear to see why amateur radio has become much less popular than it once was. The outdated technology, expensive equipment, and lack of modern features have all contributed to its decline in recent years. With a focus on modern technologies, amateur radio has become a thing of the past.

Amateur radio was once an invaluable source of communication in emergency situations, however with the advancements in technology and internet access even rural areas now have access to much more reliable methods of communication. Smartphones provide a wealth of information at anyone’s fingertips and are much easier to use than bulky, outdated radios.

The cost of the equipment is also a factor in why amateur radio has lost its popularity. Amateur radio requires multiple pieces of expensive hardware and antennas that need frequent maintenance and can be costly to repair. This makes it too expensive for many people who may otherwise be interested in using this type of communication technology.

The complexity of using amateur radio is also a major factor in its decline. It requires a lot of technical knowledge and skill to properly use, which can be intimidating for beginners. Additionally, the license needed to operate a transmitter on any public frequency is difficult to obtain and time consuming to understand. This has caused many people to simply give up on the idea of getting involved in amateur radio.

The internet has also taken away many of the reasons to use amateur radio. The internet is much easier to use than an amateur radio and it enables people to easily communicate with each other from anywhere in the world, without having to worry about technical knowledge or expensive hardware.

Finally, the cost of getting involved in amateur radio has become too prohibitive for many people. The hardware and licenses required to participate are expensive, and the costs can quickly add up.

Overall, amateur radio is no longer as popular as it once was due to a number of factors like complexity of use, availability of better alternatives such as the internet, and the cost associated with it. Unfortunately, this means that fewer people are able to experience the joys of amateur radio. However, there is still a passionate community around the world that continues to practice amateur radio and keep it alive.

For those looking to get involved in amateur radio today, they have access to online learning resources, as well as clubs and organizations that help guide newcomers. As technology advances, the cost of participation has become more affordable. With a little bit of effort and dedication, amateur radio can still be an enjoyable hobby for many people. There is still something special about a direct line of communication with another person, without the need for any infrastructure. In a survival situation, ham radio can still be a critical asset.

The History of Night Vision Technology

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Night vision technology got it’s start in World War II. It was then that scientists developed the first night vision devices for military use, as a means of providing an edge in combat situations. These early models used infrared light sources to illuminate scenes and were dubbed “starlight scopes” or “night viewers”. Without the IR illuminator, they were basically useless. Since humans cannot see IR light, this basically allowed troops to use IR flashlights while remaining undetected. they The image produced was monochrome, and the technology remained largely unchanged until the Vietnam War.

It was during this conflict that the United States developed more advanced night vision devices, with each successive generation including greater levels of sophistication and performance. At their core, these devices relied on light amplification to allow users to “see” in low-light or complete darkness. A photocathode tube converted incoming light into electrons, which were then amplified by a microchannel plate before being displayed on the phosphor screen.

For military purposes, Gen 0 night vision devices were limited to providing black and white images only. The primary purpose of these devices was simply to allow soldiers to distinguish shapes in the dark, as opposed to providing details. With Gen 1 night vision devices, the technology was advanced enough that it allowed users to identify people or objects at a distance of up to 250 meters away. This was accomplished by intensifying the available light and projecting it onto the microchannel plate.

Gen 2 night vision technology featured improved image quality, distance detection capabilities, and performance in low light conditions. This was accomplished through the use of technological advancements such as a micro-channel plate, which increased photo sensitivity and a gallium arsenide photocathode used to convert the incoming light photons into electrons. This allowed for a more intense image than what was produced with Gen 1 devices. With Gen 2 night vision technology, users could detect people or objects up to 500 meters away and even in very dim conditions.

The most advanced type of night vision technology is currently Generation 3 night vision, which use an ion barrier film and gallium arsenide photocathode which are both more sensitive than Gen 2 devices. These advancements have enabled the user to see even further distances and in much lower light conditions. Additionally, due to the improved signal-to-noise ratio of these night vision devices, they can also be used to detect objects or people at distances up to 1,000 meters away.

With the introduction of Generation 4 night vision devices, users are now able to detect people and objects at even greater distances. Generation 4 technology has a remarkable sensitivity rating which allows for ultra-low light performance and can detect targets up to 1,500 meters away. Gen4 is really still Gen3 technology, but with the ion barrier removed. Gen3 filmless technology, and Gen4, are terms that have been used interchangeably.

The most recent advancement in night vision technology has been thermal, which uses infrared radiation to detect objects and people. This type of imaging allows for enhanced performance and detection distances up to 2,000 meters away. Thermal imagers are also able to work in any lighting condition (including total darkness) and are not affected by lack of light sources such as moonlight or starlight. Thermal imaging systems are much better at threat detection, but come with their own set of problems. For example, in a vehicle you will not be able to see through the front windshield so they cannot be used for driving. They also typically have much lower resolution than light amplification night vision.

The use of night vision devices for military purposes has exponentially increased since the introduction of this technology. Today, night optics are used in almost all branches of the military, from ground troops to air forces to coastal defense systems. They continue to be invaluable assets during combat operations, enabling troops to operate more effectively and efficiently under low-light conditions.

Night vision technology is also widely used in civilian applications such as surveillance systems, law enforcement, search and rescue operations, hunting, nature observation, and personal security. With the increasing popularity of night vision goggles and scopes, more individuals are able to access this advanced technology for recreational and professional purposes.

The development of night vision technology over the years has been nothing short of remarkable. Initially, devices were bulky, heavy, and expensive but as technology advances, they have become smaller and lighter while maintaining performance levels. Night optics have gone through several generations as well; from Generation 1 to Generation 3 and now even Generation 4 (Gen3 Filmless).

Night Vision Vs. Thermal

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Seeing the nighttime world through a good pair of Gen 3 night vision can be a life changing experience. My first night with night vision equipment was a Gen 3 PVS 7. Those are the cyclops looking goggles with one Night vision tube split between two eyes. It was a magical experience being able to turn night into day; millions of stars dotting the sky, incredible resolution, I could make out fine details off in the distance like a bird leaving a branch 100 yards away.

My first experience with thermal was quite the same way; simply magical. My first hike with thermal was to detect animals to photograph for a separate wildlife photography blog. At one point there was a tall clump of reeds with a deer hiding directly in the middle. On thermal he was as clear as day. Without thermal I couldn’t see him in the tall grass at all.

So which is better in survival situations? Night vision or thermal? This is often debated and the best answer is probably both! They each really serve different purposes. That being said, they are also both very expensive investments and you may decide on purchasing either one or the other. Having had experience with both I’ll go over some of advantages and disadvantages of each, starting with generalities and getting more specific as the article goes on.

Night Vision:

Uses:

Night vision gear is outstanding for navigation. Whether goggles or a monocular, typical night vision has a magnification factor of 1x. This gives you a great view of your surroundings at close range and allows you to navigate, look at your feet for obstacles, and scan while having a “normal” view. Check out my site on PVS-14 night vision to see how the newer PVS-14 has a few advantages over the older PVS-7.

Below is a list of what I see as the most important advantages and disadvantages when considering night vision vs. thermal for survival situations:

Advantages Over ThermalDisadvantages
No Image lagNeeds some form of natural or IR illumination
Longer battery lifeThreat detection can be difficult.
Higher resolutionShadowed areas can remain dark.
Threat identification
More rugged (Military grade)
Waterproof
Mountable behind a scope (Monocular)

Threat Identification and Resolution:

In the above table I list threat identification as an advantage and lack of threat detection as a disadvantage. This is probably the main difference where utility is concerned and if you did acquire both you would use thermal for threat detection, and night vision for threat identification. Here’s an example, You’re out camping one night and you clearly see someone walking towards you through thermal because they’re lit up light a Christmas tree against the cool surroundings, but you can’t tell if that person is your cousin who’s camping with you for the weekend, or the guy who just escaped from the institution and is looking for their next “friend”. You raise up the night vision and can clearly see it’s your cousin. The reason for this is the much higher resolution of night vision equipment, and the tonal variations it is able to pick up. It’s like looking at the world in black and white, or green and white, depending on the phosphor.

Longer Battery Life:

With night vision you can typically expect 40 hours of use from one AA battery. Some devices last even longer. With thermal, depending on the unit, you might get 2-5 hours before you need to change the batteries or recharge the device. This is due to the fact that with thermal you are viewing a tiny LCD or OLED screen that needs to be powered, as well as all of the computation that occurs on the chip before the image is sent to the screen. Night vision on the other hand is turning photons into electrons and amplifying those electrons before sending them through a phosphor screen where they’re converted back into photons for your eyes to see. This process is extremely efficient when compared to thermal devices.

More Rugged:

A good PVS-7 or PVS-14 will be both waterproof to around 60 feet and rated to be mounted to a weapon without being destroyed by the recoil. Thermal monoculars are not typically designed to take such extreme conditions, and the weapon mountable versions typically don’t make great monoculars. Another benefit of Night vision devices mounted to a weapon is that they can be placed behind a scope since they amplify the visible spectrum. IR light won’t pass through glass so thermal units need to have a built-in reticle and cannot be used behind a scope. That brings me to another point, in a bugout SHTF scenerio, you wouldn’t be able to drive with a thermal device because it won’t see through the windshield.

Thermal:

Uses:

Thermal monoculars are great for threat detection. A good thermal unit can detect a human out at 800 to 1000 yards. Since they operate based on heat they are great for detecting all kinds of wildlife whether it’s moving or not. I’ve actually been able to navigate at night with a 1x thermal monocular but 1x versions are becoming more rare in my opinion. This is partially due to companies realizing the majority of their customers are hog hunting and want further detection ranges. Therefore, instead of increasing the resolution of the device, it is much more economical to increase the magnification of the lens itself. This has led to more and more thermal monoculars coming with 1.8x, 2x, or 2.5x magnifications. Great for distinguishing a hog from a human at 800 yards but not so great for trying to not trip over logs at 2am.

This has been a very general overview but I hope it’s given you some useful information if you’re trying to decide between night vision and thermal technologies.

Optics Planet is my go-to for night vision and thermal gear. Check out some of the options below:

General Mobile Radio Service (GMRS)

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GMRS is a great way to stay in touch with family members during an emergency or while outside of cellphone reception range. It operates on a set number of frequencies, requires a license available online, and maxes out at 50 watts of power. Typical range is between 5 & 25 miles. More information is available here: FCC GMRS Information.

Frequencies for GMRS:

50 Watt Direct Channels:

Frequency:Bandwidth:
462.5500 MHz20 kHz
462.5750 MHz 20 kHz
462.6000 MHz 20 kHz
462.6250 MHz 20 kHz
462.6500 MHz 20 kHz
462.6750 MHz 20 kHz
462.7000 MHz 20 kHz
462.7250 MHz 20 kHz
For use when communicating directly with another GMRS radio.

50 Watt Repeater Channels:

Frequency:Bandwidth:
467.5500 MHz 20 kHz
467.5750 MHz 20 kHz
467.6000 MHz 20 kHz
467.6250 MHz 20 kHz
467.6500 MHz 20 kHz
467.6750 MHz 20 kHz
467.7000 MHz 20 kHz
467.7250 MHz 20 kHz
For use when connecting to a repeater GMRS tower. Local repeater website will give offset and any tones needed.

GMRS is also allowed to share frequencies with FRS radio as long as they limit their radio’s output. FRS channel limits are either 0.5w or 5w. These channels are below:

Frequency:GMRS Power:Bandwidth:
462.5625 MHz5W20 kHz
462.5875 MHz5W 20 kHz
462.6125 MHz5W 20 kHz
462.6375 MHz5W 20 kHz
462.6625 MHz5W 20 kHz
462.6875 MHz5W 20 kHz
462.7125 MHz5W 20 kHz
467.5625 MHz0.5W12.5 kHz
467.5875 MHz0.5W 12.5 kHz
467.6125 MHz0.5W 12.5 kHz
467.6375 MHz0.5W 12.5 kHz
467.6625 MHz0.5W 12.5 kHz
467.6875 MHz0.5W 12.5 kHz
467.7125 MHz0.5W 12.5 kHz
FRS Channels also used by GMRS

The reasons to use FRS channels with a GMRS license is either that the GMRS channels are too crowded (unlikely), your communicating with someone outside your family who doesn’t hold a GMRS license, or you’re using handheld units and are in close enough proximity to use lower power settings. You always only want to use enough power to make clear contact. This is partly to be courteous to other radio users, and also to limit power consumption and wear on your radio gear. Just because your mobile radio is capable of outputting 7 watts of power doesn’t mean you’ll set it to 7 watts and forget it. Try lower outputs and see if you can still communicate. This is particularly true while camping and hiking while the other person is just out of site.

Communication

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Imagine a scenario where you’re driving home from work and there’s a traffic jam. You don’t think much of it at first until you notice panic in the faces of other motorists. Something has happened and it’s bad. You reach for your cellphone to call your wife and receive the message “We’re sorry, your call cannot be completed at this time.” The cellphone network is jammed because too many people are trying to use the network at one time. What do you do now?

We’ve become so dependent on cellphone technology that it’s hard to imagine our phones just not working, but it’s happened before. In times of natural disasters the cellphone networks have often collapsed. Even large events like football games have overworked networks to the point of collapse. They’re simply not designed for everyone to be on them at once. For this reason there has been a push towards getting people to send text messages instead of voice calls in emergency situations because it frees up the network. Unfortunately it’s not so easy for crowds to think so rationally during an emergency, and I too would try to call my family, not text. So what are the other options besides a cellphone? It’s simple, direct radio communication.

CB, amateur radio, and GMRS, are all systems that can keep you in touch with your family should SHTF. The only one that requires no license is Citizen Band radio. GMRS requires that you pay a fee to the FCC for a license which is good for 10 years and includes your family members at no additional costs. Amateur radio will require that you pass a written exam to become a Technician and you can then progress to the General license after another exam for bands that are able to communicate around the world. So which is best for you?

I should start out by letting you know that in an emergency situation all bands are fair game; however, you should pick a band that allows you to legally practice and become proficient. Your family should know the frequencies you will be using and you should designate 1 frequency where you’ll be able to find each other, as well as a backup frequency.

As a licensed amateur radio operator I’ve been partial to ham radio. It can be fun for the whole family and as a technician you have access to the 2 meter band as well as 76cm, plus all of the local repeaters across the country to really boost your coverage area. Some limited shortwave communication is also possible with the technician class but to really open up the shortwave bands you’d want the General license. If a test is not something you want to undertake then your next best thing would be to pay the FCC fee and acquire a GMRS license. You’re limited to 50 watts of power but that’s still much better than the 4 watts of power from CB radios, and GMRS radios have access to GMRS repeaters as well. With a little planning you should be able to communicate with your family directly if within range, or through a GMRS repeater.

Any dual-band amateur radio should work on GMRS as long as you don’t go over the 50W GMRS limit. Handheld units are also great for hiking, but typically max out at between 5 and 7 watts of power. For the full 50W you’d want a vehicle mounted system. Keep in mind that if you have a vehicle mounted system and your family has a handheld you could end up in a situation where they hear you but you cannot hear them. You could setup a home base station with a large roof-mounted antenna for even better reception. The sky’s the limit when it comes to radio communication. No pun intended.

Amateur Radios at Amazon

Meals Ready to Eat

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There’s nothing worse than to be stuck in the wilderness with no access to food. Maybe your traps haven’t been yielding any results, or maybe no fish are biting. Maybe you’ve started fantasizing about the pack of chocolate donuts you left back in the car. Whatever the case, all trips go better with some backup food sources for when things go south. Not only while camping or out in the wilderness, but also at home in SHTF scenarios. Have the stores closed? Are they open but the shelves are bare? We know what it’s like when everyone’s bought up all the toilet paper, what happens when that scarcity includes the bread and lunchmeat as well?

Enter the MRE. The U.S. Military has meal planning down to a science. Surplus MRE cases come packed with 12 meals of various types, depending on whether the case is Menu A, or Menu B. The majority of MRE’s available for purchase by civilians are made by the same manufactures of military MRE’s but are made to be sold on the civilian market. Your typical MRE will come with a main meal, some type of drink, and some type of dessert. There will also be a heating packet, utensils, salt & pepper, and some chewing gum.

The heating packet contains a heating element that activates when exposed to water. You simply open the package, add a small amount of water up to the fill line, fold over, and place the main meal in a cardboard sleeve along with the heating package. Stand it up at an angle so the water doesn’t come out of the heating pack, and let it sit for about 10 minutes. Be careful not to burn yourself, the heating element heats up quickly once exposed to water.

MRE’s will typically last up to five years depending how they’ve been stored. Hot conditions can greatly reduce their edible life. When purchasing MRE’s, look for the date the lot was created, not just the inspection date. Keep in mind you’ll have about 5 years of storage life from the date they were made, not the date they were inspected. “Inspected” means they opened the big box and checked the individual packages for signed of bug or animal infiltration, and general condition.

Lastly, as it goes with most storable foods, MREs are loaded with sodium. If you decide that an MRE has become more convenient than fixing a decent meal (I’ve been there), just keep in mind that you’ll be retaining sodium and raising your blood pressure over time. I’m not a doctor, but “all things in moderation” is a good approach to life as well as MRE consumption.

Magnesium Fire Starters

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A magnesium fire starter is arguably the most reliable method of fire production known to man. I know that’s a bold claim but they have no moving parts to break down (i.e. a lighter, butane torch, bow drill, etc.), they can get wet and still keep working (i.e. matches), their fuel can’t leak out, and they require very little manual labor, unlike the bow drill. Sure, if you’re camping for the weekend you’re not going to be using a magnesium fire starter as your main fire source, you’re going to use a lighter, or a propane torch, or a pack of matches; but that’s not the intended use of a magnesium fire starter anyway. A magnesium fire starter is one of those items you put on your keychain, or throw in your bag, and forget about it until you actually have to make a fire and have no easier option.

How does a magnesium fire starter work?

Magnesium reacts with air in the presence of fire to produce magnesium oxide. The react is quite fast, bright, and hot. The high temperatures of this reaction are what makes magnesium such a good fire starter, but it can be difficult to get a fire going because of the speed of the reaction. Therefore, it’s important to have fast burning kindling around and on top of your magnesium pile so that it may catch before the magnesium has converted fully into magnesium oxide. Fast burning kindling could include items such as dry grass, leaves, paper, steel wool, etc.

Steps Involved

Before you use your magnesium fire starter it’s important to gather your small kindling, larger kindling, sticks, and finally large sticks and logs. Gather more than you anticipate using, especially of the smaller kindling. Separate your kindling piles from smallest to largest. You’re now ready to start using the fire starter.

Some magnesium fire starters come with a scraper and some do not. If yours has a scraper, simply start scraping off magnesium into a pile. Use a knife, or some other hard object if your fire starter didn’t come with a scraper. This is the most difficult part of the whole process and you’re hands will be tired once you have a pile that could fit roundly on a penny. The larger the pile the better, especially if you’re in wet conditions.

Be careful not to let the scrapings blow away. This may require blocking the wind with a rock or some other barrier. Once you have your magnesium pile you’re ready to place your smallest kindling around, and on, the magnesium, taking care not to cover the magnesium to such an extent that it’s completely safe from your sparks.

Next you’ll strike the flint rod living on the side of the magnesium block with your knife or scraper, all the way down the length of the rod, with enough force to create sparks. Practice a few times until you’re comfortable getting a large burst of sparks. Keep in mind that too much force can also blow away your magnesium pile. If you’re using your knife on the flint try striking towards the base of the knife so that you’re not dulling the crucially sharp areas you may need later.

Once the sparks catch the magnesium on fire begin adding more small kindling, followed by larger kindling, and finally sticks. You’re main goal in life has just become finding more fuel for that fire. Notice how quickly it is burning down. This will let you gauge how long you can be away looking for more firewood.